Finding Vatsa bay and other beaches

Heres a write up i did a few years ago
Southern Lixouri Trips
Catch the ferry from Argostoli to Lixouri these ferries run every half an hour in the Summer months and the crossing takes about 25 minutes costing €1.20 for each foot passenger and €3.70 for vehicles in 2005. Just park up in your vehicle and wait for the ferry to arrive the crew will then get you to drive on board usually driving on in reverse with them guiding you to a position. Then leave your vehicle and go up to the top deck for some great views of the Argostoli lagoon, on route as you leave Argostoli you will pass by the Fanals area which has the Katovothres old water wheel clearly visible, these sink holes are where the water disappears to re-immerge the other side of the island at the Melissani caves and Karavomilos lake, after this you can see the recently refurbished Aghios Theodore lighthouse.
As you approach the Lixouri peninsula you get some great views of Lixouri itself and the mountain villages high in the background which you will be driving through later in this tour. Just before you dock at Lixouri I suggest you return to your vehicle as most of the locals will have remained in their vehicles and will be starting their engines up as the bow doors open in a mad rush to disembark and it’s a lot easier to get in your vehicle and be ready before they start driving off or horn hooting because your not ready to go !!! As you drive out of the port area head left along the front heading for signs to Lepeda beach and Xi beach keep going until you reach the main road then turn left staying on the main road until you reach the village of mantzavinata where you will see signposts to Xi beach and Vatsa. Take the turning for Vatsa and drive along twisting roads until you arrive at the Vatsa inlet where you will find the taverna Spiaggia situated and the boats moored on the Vatsa inlet itself. Here if you fancy a dip is a sand and shingle beach used mainly by locals with the taverna behind, if its lunch time and you like your Whitebait the size of herrings I can personally recommend trying them here. Watch out for the owner disappearing up a ladder, his daytime living accommodation appears to be on a mezzanine above the taverna.
Return back along the same road until you reach the main road this time take the turning signposted “Xi Beach” and you will soon pass the Cephalonian Palace Hotel then arrive at Xi beach which has full amenities including sun beds, beach bar, showers and a taverna. The beach is Red sand and shelves gently out to sea making it a safe beach for children. You will occasionally see people rubbing the cliff chalk onto there bodies as it is rumored to be an excellent mud pack. On leaving Xi return again to the main road and head left following the road inland then take the turning left signposted to the Kipoureon monastery follow this road giving you great views to your left towards Xi and further back towards Lassi and the airport. This area feels quite remote usually only passing a couple of goat herders huts but you will soon be rewarded with great views of the westernmost coats of Kefalonia and views down over the Kipoureon monastery and its well tended vine yards.
On leaving Kipoureon drive in the opposite direction from which you arrived and for the adventurous after about 1 Kilometer you will see a dirt & stone track heading left follow this track which is nice and large but slightly bumpy until you arrive at the viewing platform above the Beach Ammos. If your feeling particularly adventurous and fit all that’s stopping you reaching the beach is a few hundred steps but beware if you reach the beach there are some lethal undercurrents and the sea shelves off very steeply. If you do decide to go down make sure you have a bottle of water for the return trip and something to eat its hard going on the way back up especially in the heat of the Summer and unless you have an air conditioned car no protection from the sun at the viewing area when you reach the top either.
After returning to the main road continue following the road as it steeply ascends over the hill into the mountain villages of Kaminarata, Favatata & Havdata all of which still retain there old Greek appearances and ways of life. Following these roads downhill following signposts for Lixouri which you will re-enter following the road along a dry river bed until you reach the coast road and the ferry port back to catch the return ferry to Argostoli.

Northern Lixouri Trips
From Argostoli either drive across the Drapano bridge (on a visit in 2005 they had shut the bridge due to structural problems) which when you are on it is bigger than it appears ! or drive around the lagoon then head along the road signposted to “Fiscardo” just keep following this main road as it winds along the north side of the Argostoli estuary providing plenty of spectaculars views back across to Argostoli, Fanals area and Lixouri in the distance.

The road eventually moves away from the estuary and cuts inland before reaching the western coast just through the village of Katochori take a left turned signposted for Lixouri and Zola. Follow this winding road passed turnings to Zola, it eventually drops down onto the northern shores of the Argostoli Gulf where you have a great views of the bay and the coast heading towards Lixouri, this bay is usually breezy with the road being right on the coast and an unusual site is the seawater irrigated wet land behind. Follow this road past the ruins of a former prison and the beach at Livadi until you reach a right turned signposted to Atheras and Petani following this road a short distance before you turn left at the sign post for Petani bay.
Follow this road through farming areas until you arrive high above Petani beach on the westernmost coast of the Lixouri peninsula from here you have great views of the whole bay and its surrounding areas and the zig zag road steeply descending down to the beach. If you are lucky when you reach the bottom there will be parking spaces next to the couple of beach taverna’s, top tip make sure the car is parked in a manner and direction which allows you easy access for the drive back up as parking and space is likely to be at a premium when you leave. The beach is sand and stone and a pair of beach shoes make walking on the beach and in the sea a more pleasant experience, the water is usually very clear and great for snorkelling. The taverna’s serve a good selection of food and make a pleasant shaded spot to soak up the ambience of the area.


On leaving the Petani follow the zig zag road back up to the top of the bay then turn back the same way as you came until you reach the junction instead of turning right back towards the Lixouri road turn left heading towards Atheras which is about 8 Kilometres away. Follow this road until you reach the quaint unspoilt Greek village of Atheras.

Atheras is a small but beautiful village with roughly 200 residents. This remote village is surrounded by agricultural land of which the economy of the village is based, as so many villages are. Drive through the village following signposts for Atheras Bay. Follow the road down towards the bay and as you near the bottom you will see a dirt track off to the right take this and after 100 meters or so you will be able to park at the back of the beach and next to the solitary beach side taverna. The beach Porto Atheras is a pleasant sand and stone composition which gently slopes into the sea. You will see the quaint small Blue church of St Spiridon to your left and views over farmland to your right. The area is mostly frequented by Greeks and is a great escape from mass tourism a great place to lull over a leisurely typical Greek lunch looking out to sea in peace and quiet. (It is thought by some to be Forcys where Odysseus was left by the Faeacians after his voyage back from his adventures). As you exit the village you will once again be spoiled with great views high above the bay of Atheras and the deserted island of Averonissi, which is home to colonies of birds.

On leaving retrace your steps back along the road past the Petani turning until you reach the junction with the main road here you have two choices either turn right and follow the road down the coast road until you reach Lixouri and catch the ferry back to Argostoli and detailed in the Southern Lixouri trip or turn left back along the road you travelled on previously.

Before you reach the main Argostoli to Fiscardo road take a left turn signposted to Zola and follow the road towards the village of Zola yet again there are great views to your left of Kiriakis Beach and the coast heading towards Myrtos Beach. Drive through Zola and take the steeply descending concrete road which leads down to Kiriakis beach immediately on arrival at the beach there is a fish taverna on the left which has an excellent reputation although be prepared to pay a high price for the pleasure of dining on this fresh fish !

The beach of Kiriakis is along thin beach composing of sand and stone which has another beach bar/taverna at the far end from Zola. To leave follow the concrete road half way along the beach which climbs slowly through farm land before the final steep climb which leads back onto the main road at Angonas where you turn right to return back to Argostoli.